After a fantastic, albeit not particularly vegan friendly time in Thailand we crossed into Malaysia. The first stop on our trip was the UNESCO World Heritage Site of George Town in Penang. For some reason we both had high hopes for this destination and, as we found out, that turned out to be justified.
Having been on a pretty gruelling 10 hour bus journey and jumping forward a time-zone en route, we were rather shattered by the time we reached our hotel on Jalan Penang. However, we weren't far from the Red Garden Food Night Market so we decided to give it a try for dinner. The market had a host of stalls selling a wide range of western and local dishes. We sought a free table as we took in the sights, sounds and smells of our surroundings. It was a bit of an odd set up as drinks were ordered at the table whilst you had to go up to the stalls for food (which was then brought to your table). So we ordered a local lager, noted our table number and perused the various stalls before settling on our respective choices.
Still feeling the effects of a bout of food poisoning in Krabi, I played it safe with chicken and chips. Meanwhile, Rhian opted for veggie fajitas from a Mexican vendor. Whilst the menu didn't specify any vegan options, the stall holder spoke great English and understood exactly what Rhian was looking for. She really enjoyed the food too, although mine went down as well as the dodgey cabaret act that was the musical accompaniment to our food.
It may have been a bit rough around the edges but you'll certainly find something for everyone!
As we only had one full day in Penang we had a lot to fit in. So we skipped breakfast the next morning and caught the number 204 bus straight to Penang Hill.
We took the cable car up to the top. It was relatively inexpensive (around a tenner as I recall) although the queue was monstrous so we decided to pay extra to go in the fast lane. It was nearly double the price but well worth it for the time saved, and that was despite the early time we arrived.
When you get up there you will find a number of amenities such as shops, cafes and a food hall. We attempted a couple of the more upmarket looking cafes but they were sold out of pretty much everything. As such, our only option was the food court in which vegans will be looking at a cheeseless pizza at best. Not great variety but I think we were just a bit unlucky.
Having said that, it was all worth it to see the view from the top of the hill. The spectacular vista of the city, the strait and the mainland is a sight to behold. Plus we got our caricature done so it was time well spent!
Anyway, we caught the bus back to the centre through some fairly ropey looking parts of town. The roads were insanely busy so we ended up getting off and walking the last mile and still got back quicker.
In the afternoon we decided to have a wander to see some of the famous Penang street art. Some of it is educational and gives you an insight into life for the locals. I found a handy guide at Street Art which is worth taking around with you for an explanation of what everything represents. Other artwork included basketball and dinosaurs which was probably more up our street to be honest!
On our cultural walk we stumbled across Daily Dose restaurant on Jelang Stewart. It looked really appealing and they had vegan options so we booked a table for dinner.
When we returned it was fairly quiet with only a couple of other diners, although we had such a warm welcome that we barely noticed. The owner was even able to suggest I try some of the new Coronado Brewing Co. craft beers they had in which were fantastic.
The food was equally as good with plenty of vegan options for Rhian. She had mushroom pasta whilst I had a cottage pie. The food was delicious and went down a storm, especially as it felt like the first time I'd really had my appetite back after Krabi!
Suitably satisfied, we headed for a few drinks on Love Lane. Appropriate considering it was our honeymoon we thought. That was until we found out that the name comes from the fact that this is where the wealthy men of George Town used to take their mistresses!
Romance quashed, we took a seat outside D’Loovi’s bar, drawn in by the lure of a live band and local feel.
We enjoyed it so much that we didn't leave until closing time. That was after drinking copious amounts of beer, making friends with the owner and even singing with the band. Couldn't recommend enough for a warm welcome and friendly atmosphere.
Despite the previous night's exploits, we were up fairly early the next day. As such, we headed back down to Love Lane for breakfast. This was where we found Wheeler's Coffee.
Now this place was heaven as far as vegans (and non-vegans!) are concerned. The cafe itself was quite small but light and bright with a modern feel. We took a seat by the window and ordered a cooked breakfast (for me) and avocado on toast (for Rhian). On top of that, Rhian was able to have a soya milk hot chocolate which she had been craving since we touched down in Asia – so that was one happy customer! The food was delicious as well so it's worth checking out if you're in the city.
With our appetites satisfied, it was time to end our all too short stay in George Town.
Recommendations? You won't go far wrong if you head to Love Lane for food and a night out. With some great bars and eateries such as Wheeler's Coffee, it's the place for vegans and non-vegans alike. Also worth checking out Daily Dose for great food, good beer and a friendly welcome.
Top of the list for sightseeing has to be Penang Hill. The views are simply stunning and there's plenty to do at the top as well.
Out of all the places we visited on our Asia trip, we both agreed this was the one we would love to go back to. In fact, after seeing adverts for some cushy looking bar and cafe jobs on Love Lane, we almost didn't leave! Alas, it was time to head for the hills of the Cameron Highlands.